An Anglo-Saxon Belt
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There are few early period examples of tabletwoven belts, and fewer even of non-brocaded ones. Wool and linen generally do not last a thousand years or more, and of early period bands it is usually only the metallic thread that has survived.
The choices for an authentic recreation of an Anglo-Saxon belt are therefore somewhat limited; in fact the only detailed information I have seen so far is þóra Sharptooth's analysis of a piece of tabletweaving attached to a strap end. Consequently, I based the pattern for this belt directly on her article; my main deviation was in adding more tablets to get a wider band.
The belt is almost but not quite as authentic as I could make it. The Anglo-Saxon were magnificant goldsmiths, and would most likely have produced a far better buckle than this pewter one. However, it being my first attempt at casting a point and buckle I am not too displeased. The main difference though is that all the examples of period buckles I have seen have tongues of iron, which mine does not have.
Since this was my first buckle and there were quite a number of details I was experimenting with, such as integral rivets and hinges, I decided to simplify where I could and just cast a plain loop.
The GTT pattern for the belt can be found here.
Technical Data
# Tablets | 37 4-hole tablets – note that there are no actual selvedge tablets |
Warp | pure wool, 2-ply, blue, red, yellow, white |
Weft | pure wool, 2-ply, blue |
Pattern | blue background, yellow on red diamonds and white spots |
Method | two packs of alternately idling tablets |
Width | 25 mm |
Length | 168 cm |
References
Collingwood, P. The Techniques of Tabletweaving. London 1982.
Crowfoot, E., Pritchard, F., Staniland, K. Textiles and Clothing: 1150 - 1450. London 2001.
Egan, G; & Pritchard, F. Dress Accessories 1150 - 1450. Woodbridge 2002.
Hansen, E. Brikvævning. Højbjerg 1990.
Priest-Dorman, C. A Saxon Treaded-In Tablet Weave.
http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/saxontw.html